Yerevan's best kept secret?: The Gök (Blue) Mosque

Yerevan's unique mosque is a surprisingly imposing religious complex covering more than 70,000 sq.ft of prime land in the Center of the capital. Being an Iranian mosque, it follows the Twelver Shi'ite branch of Islam, as Shi'ism was proclaimed state religion of the Persia by the Safavid Empire from the early 16th century and on. (Photo: SasunsyDavit)

The tiny Republic of Armenia never ceases to amaze and surprise the world with its vast cultural heritage and important landmarks disproportionate to its size. The landlocked country in the Caucasus in the Highlands of biblical Mount Ararat has an area of under 30,000 km.sq. with a population of around 3 million. Since the fall of the Soviet bloc in 1991 it regained its independence and now is being discovered by visitors and investors from around the Globe.

Understandably the capital Yerevan is the magnet attracting the new investments, developments and the lion's share of all the visitors who comb the country and are left amazed by the vast variety of natural beauties and the cultural heritage that the country has to offer. Yet, quite amazingly, one if the best kept secrets of Armenia's Capital Yerevan seems to evade most tourists, even many locals.

"So you stayed at the Marriott Hotel in the city center. Did you also visit the nearby Blue Mosque?", I would ask out of curiosity.

-"What mosque? There are no mosques we know of in Yerevan" is the most frequent answer I get.

Yet this big Yerevan mosque is right there, just a few hundred feet away from Armenia's "Point Zero", the epicenter of the country: the Republic square (Hanrapetutyan Hrabarag). Moreover, It is a pretty imposing and rather pleasing complex just a heartbeat away from the Opera or the Marriott. I have literally seen thousands of photographs of every relevant and irrelevant structure and site in Yerevan. Every little commemorative palque, statue, fountain, street corner is proudly photographed by the visitors, but I have never seen one photo of this proud Mosque.

No wonder people miss this unique mosque. It is right opposite the main popular produce market on the Mashdots avenue, but it is hidden almost entirely behind rather ugly apartment buildings that surround it completely (see map below).

Yerevan's unique mosque is nicknamed "Blue", surely because of the predominant color of the entrance and the exterior tiles. (Photo: SasunsyDavit)

This only surviving mosque in Yerevan is called the the Gök mosque (Blue or Sky Blue Mosque), known or Kapuyt Mezgit (Կապոյտ մզկիթ) in Armenian. It sits on an imposing 75,000 sq.ft of land, has an inner courtyard, meeting halls as well as a theological school (madrasa). The single brick and tile laden minaret towers over the complex.

The exact origins of the mosque may be little fuzzy, but it was certainly constructed to its present dimensions in around 1764 and completed within the same decade.The mosque is said to have been commissioned under the patronage of the local Governor or ruler Hussein Ali Khan. That was of course a period of yet another Persian dominion over the eastern Armenian territories after it was taken from the Ottoman Empire.  At the time Yerevan was a provincial town, probably with 20,000 inhabitants but was nonetheless influential, with the Armenian Apostolic Holy Seat at Etchmiadzin  just a short distance away. 

Yerevan and Eastern Armenia of course eventually fell under Russian influence and direct rule after 1827 and the Treaty of Turkmenchay, which gave Russia its modern zones of influence relative to Persia and Turkey of the day. This treaty came as a result of the Russo-Persian wars which resulted in crushing defeats for Iran. Turkmenchay is a town in the Azerbaijan province of modern Iran, where the defeated Persians signed and recognized the Imperial Russian dominion over the "Yerevan", "Nakhitchevan" and "Talish" Khanates (administrative provinces under the authority of a Khan). One of the the main results of the treaty was the establishment of the Arax river (Araz, Արաքս)  as the recognized boundary between Russian zone of direct influence and Iran. This is still true today, as Arax forms the actual borders between Azerbaijan and Iran and southern Armenia.

                                     (Click on photo to enlarge for details) 

Yerevan: The Persian mosque called the Gök Jamii (Blue  Mosque) can be seen as the black dot 24 in the center. Note how it is pretty much hidden by all the surrounding Apartments despite its central location. It is only one block away from the Hanraptutyun (Republic) square, the "Point Zero" of Armenia (at the center right in yellow). Marriott Yerevan, formerly "Armenia" hotel is the number 22. Next up is the Ministry of Foreign affairs.

According to some reliable sources, there were around 10 functional mosques in the Yerevan region before the arrival of the Russians. These mosques were eventually abandoned or demolished except of course the Blue Mosque. During the Soviet era, this mosque suffered the same tragic fate as most of the churches in the deeply christian tiny country of Armenia. The communists implemented extreme secular policies, forcibly closing churches and putting all religious institutions under heavy pressure. The Blue Mosque was of course no exception and was in pitiful condition as well during these communist dark ages. After the fall of the Soviet Union the mosque underwent radical and somehow controversial restoration with funding provided by the Iranian Government. Some critics argued the restorations were not truthful to the original spirit of the mosque.

The very intriguing question as to why the Yerevan Blue mosque is surrounded from all sides with apartments buildings and thus literally hidden from view except a rather modest entrance on the Mashdotz avenue?  The first logical explanation would be to assume that there was a certain bigotry or conspiracy on the part of the Armenians to ''neutralize'' the Muslim Mosque from general view. In fact the encirclement of the mosque by apartment buildings is almost complete. But it is very safe to say that there was no "foul play" involved on the part of the Christian Armenians. On the contrary, care was exercised to include the whole complex in the new block without any architectural "dissections".

Armenia's capital:  Yerevan in the shadow of the snow-capped heights of Mount Ararat, where it is said Biblical Noah's Ark landed escaping the Great Flood. Yerevan's modern urban plan is most obvious with this aerial view. The Ararat mountain with its two peaks has always been at the very center of Armenian history and identity and is sacred to its people. Today it lies in Turkey, just across the border. Alexander Tamanian drew the modern Yerevan city plans (bottom)

The simple explanation of the mosque's bizarre encirclement is that Yerevan underwent a major urban plan during the Soviet times. The city center was completely overhauled and redesigned, just the same way say Baron Haussman transformed central Paris arteries during the 19th century. Renowned architects (especially Alexander Tamanian) undertook the major task of modernizing Yerevan and the new general plan was executed (see Yerevan city map above for the modern design). Therefore the Blue mosque happened to fall in the middle of a new grid or block and was surrounded by new buildings along the new avenues. The blue Mosque was preserved.  In any case, destroying it would have been both stupid and criminal.

Yerevan's best kept secret?: The apartment buildings completely encircle the mosque and make it almost impossible for an outside passer-by to see it, even from the major Mashdots or Khorenatsi avenues. Yet this mosque is a joy to see, appreciate and pay a visit.

When I discovered this mosque while trying to find a shortcut from the Mashdotz avenue to my hotel in the mid nineties, the exterior was being repaired by at least six workers albeit with rather primitive methods and equipments. The pace of the works seemed very slow albeit continuous. The mosque is presently functional and is an important meeting point for the local tiny Muslim population and expatriate students studying in Armenian Universities.

Is the Yerevan Blue Mosque a masterpiece in Persian Shiite Islamic architecture? Not so by any stretch of imagination. However it is a historical place of worship that deserves a visit, a photo or two and all the care the Armenian people and Government can give to this unique mosque of the Capital.

The recent referendum in Switzerland imposing a ban on the construction of minarets next to the mosques was a sure indication of the needless and somehow understandable but unnecessary and often ridiculous clashes between these two great monotheistic religions: Islam and Christianity. In this late Swiss episode many protest voices were heard, but similar attitudes of intolerance and exclusion exists all around the world. In Saudi Arabia, for instance, existing churches do not even look like actual churches from the exterior. No crosses are allowed, no visible signs such as stained glasses or statues. Same story on a lesser extent in Kuwait City, where the main Church next to the Sheraton had no cross as not to insult the locals. In some of these these countries the construction and maintenance of any Christian worship place faces more hurdles than the erection of the Great Wall of China!

The landscaping around the perimeter is a disaster, yet seemingly "normal" and somehow acceptable for that part of the world. Fortunately, the "exotic" charm of this mosque is not lost. The brick minaret with staggered patterns is typical of Persian-Mesopotamian traditions.   

The Saudis, for example, have imposed a series of non surmountable pre-conditions effectively banning any church constructions. At the core of all this is their insistence that the Catholic church in particular somehow "recognize the prophet Mohamed", even though unclear in what exact capacity. Such conditions are vague and poisonous. Essential human rights and the freedom of all people to practice their  faith freely must be beyond any ridiculous restrictions from all sides. The same is true to the Muslim communities that may suffer unnecessary conditions, harassment, discrimination and exaggerated sets of rules and regulations here and there. 

In this day and age when religious intolerance is growing like a cancer both in East and West, the World deserves more positive winds of openness, goodwill and a minimum of tolerance. Armenians have had major issues with peoples acting in the name of Islam. Armenians have suffered immensely and have paid the ultimate price of abuses perpetrated against them in the name of religious correctness. This is the reason why the recent restoration and the preservation of this Blue mosque in the middle of Yerevan should serve as an example of tolerance and respect towards minorities to others. Armenian churches are crumbling both in  Turkey and even in Christian Georgia (Capital: Tbilisi), where the central government has to come clean and act responsibly towards its minorities.

In any case, it is very clear that Yerevan is a richer place with this Blue mosque than without it.

The Blue Mosque mosque complex from the back oozes Persian architectural forms, even though not in its purest forms. The finishing is rough, but functionality and cost cutting consideration obviously have prevailed. The  Yerevan mosque should not be confused with the Blue Mosque of Istanbul, the incredible "Sultanahmet" with its six minarets, an architectural masterpiece of the highest order. Another famous "Blue mosque" of course is in Tabriz (Iran) which was heavily damaged by an earthquake in 1779 and only recently mostly repaired.

Minimalistic approach: The interior of the Yerevan Blue Mosque is beautiful in its simplicity yet lacks the "wow" factor. No interior tiles or typical Islamic calligraphy in this part. The Mihrab (the niche in the wall indicating the direction of Mecca) and the Minbar (the pulpit with stairs for the Imam's sermon) are very simple and functional. The carpet has patterns marking individual worshipers allocated floor space and prayer direction.

 

 Yerevan, Armenia circa 1672, then till under Persian suzerainty until 1827. It was a provincial city. In early 20th century and during the Armenian genocide of 1915 thousands of refugees and survivors found refuge there and eventually it became the Capital of the First Republic of Armenia proclaimed in May 28, 1918. It has remained so since and today it has an estimated population of 1.2 million. 

©Krikor Tersakian, Dec. 2009

Editor's notes:  

• Note: Armenia has very rich historical monuments and can be regarded as an open air museum. Day trips from Yerevan can take the visitors to almost all destinations. Armenia was the first nation to adopt Christianity as a state religion in AD 301. Thousand year old churches, Stone crosses (Khatchkars) and other monuments are there to be discovered and awe any visitor. Since the fall of the Soviet Union it is an independent state again and an emerging democracy. Three sites in modern Armenia are included on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list, having outstanding universal value and meeting the tough selection criteria. Links to the UNESCO website:
• Monasteries of Haghpat and Sanahin
  
• Cathedral and Churches of Echmiatsin and the Archaeological Site of Zvartnots
• Monastery of Geghard and the Upper Azat Valley

Photo: Geghard or Keghart rock-carved monastery

Karahunge: The Armenian Stonehenge

Karahunge is a very unique and almost unknown megalithic site in Armenia that may have had a much bigger regional influence than previously thought or understood. Research and understanding of its mysteries are incomplete. The promotion and preservation of the site are nonexistent. 

The Stonehenge is a marvel of the ancient world, situated in the Salisbury plain west of London, England. It is the most famous megalithic site on earth and fully deserves its fame by the sheer size of the stones and their incredible technique of construction for their age. Like other similar sites all around Europe, it was sacred place for meeting, praying, burial, observing the celestial movements and praising the supernatural and the mystical.

The very venerable Stonehenge is in a sense unique in the world, but it may owe a big debt to an obscure Armenian megalithic site called the Karahunge. Quite simply, Karahunge and Stonehenge have identical names: KaraHunge / StoneHenge.

"Kar"means "Stone", in Armenian, and "Hunge" (Հունչ/Հնչել) means "Sound" or "Buzz". Amazing but true, Stonehenge may owe his name to the much older Karahunge site in Armenia. It is a striking and incredible similarity, to say the least, for two prehistoric and very distant sites.

The Karahunge observatory at full functionality! The sight is primitive, rough compared to some other megalithic sites but still very romantic, pretty and mysterious.

Here are some theories: "Hunge" or "Henge" (as in Stonehenge) has no clear meaning in English or its preceding languages although some suggest it may mean hinge, as is the door hinge. Some theories claim that Stān means "stone", and either "hencg" meaning hinge (because the stone lintels hinge on the upright stones) or "hen(c)en" meaning "hanging". It is a fact that the upper horizontal tier of the Stonehenge stones sit in hidden pointed parts of the vertical stones as if acting like anchoring and stabilizing hinges. But the name Stonehenge itself may be much older than the introduction of the word hinge into modern day England.

Still one can not explain how Karahunge/Stonehenge have got identical names. It seems unlikely that it is just a simple coincidence, and all this enigma makes for a very curious and intriguing case of these megalithic sites. Karahunge (Քարահունչ) is thought to be 7500 years old while its English homonym Stonehenge is around 3500 years "younger" at 4000-5000 years (depending on the successive long construction period of the stones).

Karahunge vaulted tombs called "dromos" and "cromlechl": Naturally these tombs are completely empty since a very long time. God knows who and what was buried there thousands of years ago...

Moss and lichens covered Karahunge stones. These specifically angled carved holes were most certainly for astronomical observations and rituals. The holes may be much "younger" than the stones themselves, judging from their rather clean and non weathered shape.

Karahunge, or what remains of it, is made of rather small basalt stones. The present shape of the stones is almost random and the overall effect less than tremendous but still pretty impressive. But, lest we forget, Stonehenge is 3500 years "younger" than Karahunge and we all know what that means in terms of progress in human history. Let's look at the last 35 years to understand the impact of 3500 years!

Karahunge literally translates as "Stones with Voice" or "Stones that have a Sound". It is also known as Zorats Karer (Զորաց Քարեր) in Armenia, that could be translated as "Powerful Stones" or the "Stones of the Powerful". Both these names are currently used, but the official name remains Karahunge. The site is situated at an altitude of 1,750 meters, near the town of Sisian, 220 kilometers south-east of the capital Yerevan. It is located on a rocky promontory, a prominent mass of land or hill which overlooks lower lying land and therefore easier to defend. The nearby town of Sisian (Սիսեան) is a small provincial agglomeration of under 20,000. It is situated at the narrowest point of Republic of Armenia proper sandwiched between Artsakh-Karabagh and Naxichevan (see map below).

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Karahunge is situated just north of Sisian, on the narrowest region of Armenia proper sandwiched between the Armenian autonomous region of Artsakh- Karabagh to the east and the Azeri Naxichevan. Note that ''Xankandi'' on the map actually refers to Stepanakert, the Capital city of Artsakh

Karahunge was mainly used as a large necropolis from the Middle Bronze Age to the Iron Age. Huge stone tombs are found there and around, dating from these periods. Later, possibly in Hellenistic-Roman times, it is thought to have served as a place of refuge in times of social unrest or attack. A defensive wall of rocks and loam was built, and vertical rocks were used for reinforcements. Of this city wall only the upright standing rocks still remain (see photo below).

The remaining rocks of the original Karahunge defensive city walls. Note the numbering of the stones.

Karahunge site today is made up of hundreds (some say 223 in total) of vertically standing basalt stones of which 84 stones. The total territorial area is approximately 7 hectares. Many of these stones have smooth angled holes of 4 to 5cm in diameter, the angles of the holes being directed at different points on the horizon and outer space. The age of Karahunge has been estimated to be 7500 years or older (VI millennium BC). It is believed that the main deity celebrated there was Ari, the main prehistoric Armenian God of the period, as well as possibly other lesser Gods.

A festival of colors and reflections: Each stone is marked with its number in a bizarre and primitive form of paint identification probably from the Soviet days. Some pointed stones may have been a focal point with its narrow tip to reflect light on other nearby stones.

We shall underline that in no way we are implying that Karahunge may be as "important" or impressive as Stonehenge as a megalithic site. That is not the case, nor the issue. In fact, some of the Stonehenge stones are up to 7m and weigh 50 tons and mostly brought from specific quarries in Carmarthenshire in south west Wales. The distance from Carmarthenshire to Stonehenge is more than 110km, and the way these giant stones were moved to Stonehenge by land and sea is still a mystery and an incredible human accomplishment by itself.

Karahunge is more modest in sheer size, but it surely deserves a lot of interest. It is somehow unknown even among the general Armenian population and it rarely figures in brochures or books. We do not have official statistics, but the number of visitors to Karahunge is probably insignificant. The tourist accommodations near the site, the appropriate landscaping, signage and documentation are almost nonexistent to encourage more visitors. A site pretty much abandoned despite a new dynamic and flourishing tourism industry in Armenia. 

Similar prehistoric megalithic stone structures exist all around Europe and beyond from Sweden to Russia. Menhirs, Dolmens, burial mound and barrows, Cromlech (stone chambers), and other types of prehistoric structures are highly appreciated everywhere they are found . Most of these sites are Neolithic (New Stone Age) 5000 BC and Bronze age 3000-2000BC and younger. In its style and form, Karahunge seems closer to another English megalithic site at Avebury, not far from Stonehenge. But somehow it is the famous Stonehenge that shares the same name with Karahunge which lies almost 4000km away, in a remote mountainous region in the Armenian Syunik (Սիւնիք) region!

Karahunge "Ghost Town": a panorama worthy of a scary Hallowe'en movie.

Karahunge may or may not have given his name to the Stonehenge, but this issue may turn out to be more than just speculation. Some (but not enough) scientific research has been done in Karahunge, but the gathered information and knowledge are far from being complete or satisfactory. A lot more research is needed in order to unlock the magnitude of Karahunge's regional influence and details about these Armenian ancestors who built it some 70 centuries ago.

Is Karahunge and the nearby other bronze age sites a priority in the conversation efforts in Armenia? The answer of course is a "No". Countless churches, monasteries and Stone Cross Khatchkars are in rather pitiful conditions too and need immediate attention. Karahunge seems to be at the bottom of the "To Do" or rather "Forgotten" list.

Stonehenge in Wiltshere, England is surely one of Britain's and the World's greatest icons. Since its construction some 5000 years ago, it has symbolized mystery, power, worship and endurance.Most probably it was a pagan a temple made for the worship of ancient deities, and a sacred burial site and an astronomical observatory. Like the nearby Avebury site, Stonehenge is a U.N.E.S.C.O. World Heritage Site of the "Highest order".

Karahunge is unique to the region, and is worthy of much more attention and care than its present state of total abandon. It deserves a minimum of effort, recognition and restoration from both the Armenian and the International communities, specialized agencies and Foundations.

Unfortunately, I doubt that anything of substance will happen anytime soon.

Note:

I modestly dedicate this article about Karahunge to all Armenians around the World who courageously preserve their identity and their very old and unique culture. If these 7000 years old rocks are any indication, History and Culture are built over a long long period of time. And we all carry the burden to protect them against all odds and challenges.

© Krikor Tersakian Oct.13, 2009